Napoli

Spot the name 独眼竜 (One-Eyed Dragon) among the loaves at ナポリ and it is hard not to reach for it. The small loaf is hollowed out and capped with a piece of bread crust; lift the lid and a perfectly cooked fried egg appears inside. Cabbage dressed with mayonnaise and ham round it out, bringing playful presentation together with the comfort of familiar flavours.

There is plenty to choose from among the savoury breads, including a French pizza generously topped with ingredients and cheese; warmed briefly, its toasty bread and melting cheese stand out. The chilled section’s たまごパン is also well regarded: a rounded bun generously filled with mild egg filling, its rich flavour given a lively kick by black pepper. Other substantial options include curry bread in different heat levels, a bread roll filled with crisp-fried cutlet, and a casse-croûte sandwich with cream cheese and ham available on weekend mornings.

There is just as much to pick from for a snack or a sweet craving. The twisted doughnut is fried bread coated in sugar, with a crisp surface and an unabashed sweetness that calls for a stronger-tasting drink alongside. Other options include a soft, fine-crumbed round loaf, a strawberry waffle sandwich, anpan made with azuki beans from Hokkaido, and boxed brandy cake with a pronounced liqueur flavour.

A short walk from Yotsugi Station, ナポリ is a takeaway bakery open from 6:30 in the morning, handy for picking up breakfast before work or something extra later in the day. Payment is accepted in cash or via PayPay, making it easy to choose a few things and take them away.